The thin green spears of asparagus, so beloved in England at this time of year, can be hard to come by in France. The markets are full of the thicker, white asparagus which is often served with a bechamel or in a gratin with ham, eggs and cream. Never do you see the tiny, wispy stems that we used to call spru and that I love grilled with olive oil and salt and pepper. But every now and then there is a bundle or two of the green stuff, if you’re lucky a shallow crate of it, locally grown. When I find it I like to make this pretty green soup in celebration. In truth you don’t have to add the cream, it’s a beautifully velvety soup without it, but I love it with cream, and an extra swirl on top with a grating of black pepper.
Serves 4-6
Ingredients
2 bundles of asparagus
1 fennel bulb, finely chopped
1 onion, finely chopped
1 large clove of garlic, crushed
Olive oil
A knob of butter
1 litre vegetable stock
Cream
Salt and pepper
Method
Snap the base from each asparagus stem and place in a medium saucepan. Chop the rest of the spears into small rounds and set aside. Add the fennel, onion and garlic to a large pan with the butter and olive oil and place over a medium heat to begin to soften, without colouring. Once it gets going pop on a lid and lower the heat. Cook gently for a good 10-15 minutes.
Pour the vegetable stock over the woody bases of the asparagus stems and bring to a simmer. I do this to pull out as much of the asparagus flavours as possible.
Once the onions, garlic and fennel are sweet and soft, add the chopped asparagus and allow to cook for a few minutes. Pour the stock into the pan through a sieve to catch the woody stems and discard them. Simmer for a few minutes until the asparagus is tender. Turn off the heat and allow to cool slightly.
Blend the soup in batches in a food blender until completely smooth and silky. Pour back into the pan and stir in the cream if you’re using it. Taste and add salt and pepper, serve with a swirl of cream and more pepper.
This soup freezes beautifully and keeps in the fridge well for several days.
